There are lots of sustainable and ethical womenswear brands out there, and in this particular feature, I am highlighting those which have cool, snazzy and fun creative directions. This (to me) means they have a relatively vibrant colour palette, their designs are original and there is a certain sense of optimism about them – because we can all do with some of that now!
Even just two years ago, the roster of brands to choose from would have been more slim. Narrowed down from a vast sea of sustainable brands, these are all labels whose creative vision and social and environmental integrity have given me hope about the direction the industry is heading.
Running a sustainable business is not easy. Running a creatively inspiring fashion label is not easy. Running a sustainable fashion label with a strong creative vision? That takes bravery, hard work, good planning and steadfast persistence. Raw talent helps too.
Please take note that these are also brands which I can envision myself wearing, so that could be pretty personal. I am also excluding activewear, loungewear, intimates, minimalist basics, shoes, accessories… those will come later. Stay tuned 😉
With that being said, here are some fashion brands (in no particular order) which allow you to dream a little while being conscious of their impact on the environment and people. There are medium sized brands, small brands, really small brands (in terms of production volume). These companies all approach sustainability in their own way – using low impact materials, spotlighting local craftsmanship, working fairly with makers, using revolutionary business models… and more!
Yan Yan Knits
Yan Yan Knits is a brand from my hometown of Hong Kong, and their whimsical yet elegant style stands out among the sea of design white noise. YanYan (人人) means “everyone” in Cantonese, and this reflects the company ethos of making thoughtful design-driven products; thinking about people from sourcing, to design, to manufacturing, to making a connection with their customers.
The brand is founded by former Rag & Bone Director of Knitwear Phyllis Chan and Hong Kong designer Suzzie Chung. Having witnessed the waste and overconsumption prevalent in the fashion industry, the duo made a commitment to be responsible and thoughtful in their design, and to honor the natural resources that make what they do possible.
How do they do this? They put this into practice through purchasing and using leftover yarns from other companies to create new designs. Currently 50% of the collection is produced using these yarns. This prevents premium yarns in perfect condition from hitting the landfill, and reduces the need to produce new yarns. Typically, the process of producing new yarn involves raising animals or plants, harvesting and processing the fiber, spinning and dyeing yarn, and shipping the yarn from the mill to the factory – it’s a lot! By using already produced yarns, Yan Yan is doing their part in reducing waste in the industry – all the while producing quirky, one-of-a-kind designs!
Maggie Marilyn
Maggie Hewitt of Maggie Marilyn is one of the few designers out there who is as serious about creative expression as she is about sustainability. That perhaps has a lot to do with Maggie’s background. Growing up in a rural, coastal region of New Zealand, Maggie Hewitt’s appreciation for and desire to protect our natural world was intrinsically engrained. Her love for fashion led her to study Fashion & Sustainability at university. There, she saw an industry that needed fixing, and fast. Maggie saw it as her mission to build a brand that championed transparency, empowered people and ensured that the health of our planet was at the forefront of every design and business decision.
And the brand’s actions speak for it. For one, it is one of the few out there which has dedicated time and money to setting up a strategy for creating meaningful and measurable change. Very often, a brand’s stance on sustainability and ethics are vague and opaque. Maggie Marilyn publishes details of their strategy – I would even say the way the brand operates in terms of commitment to sustainability should be a gold standard for other brands to follow.
In their latest strategy update, Maggie writes:
“If this past year has taught me anything, it is the power of purpose. Everyday we face road-blocks such as these [challenges outlined] on our path to creating a better industry, but every day I am reminded of the importance of continuing to push forward. I know my purpose is to be a force for good, to create positive change in our industry and to be a brand that hopefully inspires other industries to do the same. This strategy has been my northern star, even at times when I have felt as though I am driving in the dark, it has been there reminding me of why I am on this journey. We have no choice, our industry must change.”
I highly recommend anyone interested in understanding the nuances and challenges of sustainable fashion to read her reports!
But okay, let’s talk about her clothes. Her clothes are dreamy and elegant with an undeniable sense of optimism. If you can’t tell from her clothes, you might be able to tell from how she names them – the “I Lead From the Heart” blazer, “Rise and Resist” Dress (a reference I believe, to sustainability journalist Clare Press’s book title), the “Stronger Together” Shirt. They are all produced in New Zealand, for it is a cornerstone of the brand to support their local industry. Stories and information about these makers are all available on the brand’s website. Long story short – her clothes spark joy. Check it out for yourself!
Ps. I understand Maggie’s clothes (brand new) might be out of budget for some people. In that case, I highly recommend checking out secondhand options on The Real Real!
Paynter Jacket
Paynter Jacket is adamant about not producing more than what is necessary, so much that their jackets are made-to-order, and only three times a year – launching one jacket each time. They take iconic styles of well-made jackets and re-make them with labour of love using the best materials they can find. Each jacket they make is part of a limited edition batch and is hand-numbered in the order it is sold.
To tell the story of Paynter’s birth is also to tell a love story. Becky Okell met Huw Thomas at a lecture in London by coincidence. Even though they were apart the next week, they texted every day, and by the end of that week, Becky invited Huw along to join her on a trip to visit her family. It was on this three day trip that between conversations about brands they like, the fashion industry, and brainstorming about what a brand would be like if they started one together (small, interesting, unwasteful), that the seeds of Paynter were sown. Their full story is worth a read on their About page.
They documented their whole process of putting together their first jacket – from finding their first pattern maker (a guy driving a Honda Jazz who used to work for Burberry), to working with a Portugese factory to make their small batch of jackets. By the time they launched their first jacket – they had 2500 people on their waitlist. Since then, they have made three limited edition jackets and each one has sold out in under an hour. Their next launch is on Sept 4, 2020 – are you in?
Olana
Olana designs clothes for “all the girls with their heads in the clouds” *hands up*. Yes Olana’s colour palette is limited to pastels and monotones (I said I would feature colourful brands), but their dreamy design details and aesthetics warrants a mention.
The Olana muse is the free-spirited woman with an inner confidence and appreciation for the simple things in life, and judging by the considered way their clothing is produced, this woman also appreciates a slower approach to fashion.
Each garment in their collection is made-to-order in their studio in the North of England and is carefully put together by a small team of artisan dressmakers with over 50 years experience in the UK’s fashion industry. The process for creating each garment involves designing, cutting, stitching, steaming, labelling, packaging and sending to each of their customers personally. The emphasis on craftsmanship truly shines through for this brand.
They also use linen a lot in their designs, a material that is strong, breathable, renewable, and gentle on our planet.
Lingua Franca
Lingua Franca runs on one simple design concept – hand-stitched slogans on cashmere sweaters. On their homepage, it literally reads: “It started with a stitch – literally. No grand plans. No big ideas.” But this simple idea has taken Lingua Franca to great heights. With catchy slogans such as “I miss Barack”, “give a damn“, and the recently more trending “Dr. Fauci fan club”, “zoom university 2020” or “you’re too close” in small print, Lingua Franca designs have charmed many around the world. This includes celebrities such as Reese Witherspoon, Connie Britton, Meryl Streep and more.
The story of Lingua Franca started by chance. Founder Rachelle Hruska MacPherson had “crazy postpartum anxiety”, and her therapist told her to do something with her hands. Over that weekend, she followed her therapist’s advice and embroidered BOOYAH on an old cashmere sweater. She posted that on Instagram.
What followed was a flood of requests from family and friends for custom embroideries on sweaters, and the rest was history. But throughout the brand’s growth, the company has stayed authentic to its values of creating “a subversive underground movement to counteract the forces of mass production, mindless consumerism, and the patriarchy. Just kidding (kind of).” What that translates to is a line of sustainably-sourced, fair trade luxury cashmere sweaters, all hand-stitched by women in NYC. The brand has also since expanded into embroidered T-shirts and sweatshirts.
Lingua Franca’s embroiderers make between $20 and $27 an hour (above a living wage in NYC) and can work mostly from home with flexible hours. This is one of the first brands I have seen who are transparent about exactly how much they pay their makers!
Fanm Mon
Fanm Mon is a brand I have been eyeing on Instagram for a long time. I am intrigued by its handcrafted details, its sense of optimism, and the connection I feel to the brand through designer Sophia Demirtas’ sharing on Instagram of behind-the-scenes processes of the brand. In a video post of a dress being smocked (an embroidery technique used to gather fabric so that it can stretch), she writes “instead of simply telling you that your purchase is made with love, care and a beautiful energy. I always think it is best to show you why it is #worththewait!”
Fanm Mon is started by Haiti-born, Turkey-based designer Sophia Demirtas. She actually started the company making jewelry at the beginning, but she pivoted to clothing when an embroidered dress she made for herself sold about 50 pieces in the first week of her posting it. Almost all of her dresses are made of linen, one of the most sustainable fabrics out there, and handcrafted in an atelier in Ukraine, a country with a rich tradition in embroidery. Her dresses are simply perfect for twirling in!
Rianna + Nina
Sometimes, upcycled, patchwork fashion can look very “upcycled”, if upcycled has a look – mismatched, forced, and sometimes not very practical for wear unless you work in fashion. Although Rianna + Nina put together different fabrics of various prints for their designs – they make it work. Both founders Rianna and Nina have backgrounds in vintage and beautifully-made fashion (Rianna had a vintage store since 1987, while Nina was Head of Marketing of Communication at Galeries Lafayette). They met by chance at a vintage furniture fair where they quickly realized that they both share a passion for vintage fabrics, vibrant prints, traveling and a positive way of living.
This parlayed into the creation of stunning and unique pieces for Rianna + Ninna. For their one-of-a-kind collection, they offer dresses handcrafted out of vintage silk scarves by master artisans in their Berlin atelier. Their Bon Bon bags are also crafted out of vintage silk. These are pieces that you will own and treasure and pass down generations. Check them out and get ready to be swept away!
House of Sunny
“Retro” is one word that comes to mind when you land on House of Sunny’s Instagram feed. And that makes perfect sense – House of Sunny’s latest collection is inspired by the 1990s film Edward Scissorhands. Think poodles, bright pastel shades of the houses in old films, and the nostalgia of suburbia.
The brand was founded in 2010, but it is only in recent years that it has seen a rise in mainstream popularity. Celebrity support like Bella Hadid wearing their pink polo helps, but House of Sunny has also built a cult-like following that obsesses over their every collection.
And that might have to do with the brand’s limited product releases too. The house produces two collections a year in small, considered runs. They also operate a “shop it before we drop it” model that allows for better estimation of production volume to avoid waste.
Other sustainability initiatives include using e-flow technology (a sustainable textile solution to reduce water consumption by up to 95 per cent) to produce its denim; labels made from recycled polyester, organic cotton or recycled cotton; and anti-wastage print designs which can cut fabric waste by 40 per cent.
Personally, one area of improvement I wish to see is more information about their production locations, practices and wages. The information provided on their website is still slightly vague to me!
Maison Cléo
When I think of Maison Cléo, I think of a French mom hand-stitching each and every garment. Wait, that’s actually the story of Maison Cléo!
The brand is a mother-daughter partnership. Daughter Marie has had extensive experience working on the business side of fashion, including at secondhand fashion reseller Vestiare Collective, while mother Cléo is a qualified seamstress. Every piece of clothing is handmade with deadstock fabrics, and margins and prices are calculated as fairly as possible and explained on every product page. The interesting thing is, their e-shop only opens every Wednesday – so you only have one chance to shop every week!
Where does the brand’s inspiration come from? The other women in the family. There was Louise – grandmother of Marie’s grandmother, who was a great seamstress in the 19th century. Then there is Marie’s grandmother, or Cléo’s mother, who never bought any clothes for her or for her four children because she made all of them. Just like with Cléo, dressmaking is a passion – and the mother and daughter duo wishes to share this passion with the world, while standing strong against the forces of fast fashion. (There is no beating around the bush about this with “#FFF F***FastFashion” front and center on the brand’s Instagram bio.)
Hôtel Vetements
Hôtel Vetements has an incredible back story and design concept. Founder Alexandra Hartmann came across some old hotel curtains in 2017, and that triggered an impulse to create one-of-a-kind pieces from beautiful, discarded fabrics from hotels.
With a passion for upcycling, local work, quality and aesthetics, Alexandra brings new life to old curtains, upholsteries, handmade embroideries, linens, tablecloths, napkins and more. The fabric she sources come mainly from Paris, with some dating all the way back to the 1800s, like curtains sourced from the French capital’s Ritz Hotel.
The result are beautifully made coats, jackets, tops and pants with fabrics and trims rich with history and craftsmanship. In the Alexandra’s words: “Working with these materials is a thoughtful process. There is very little waste since the size of the fabric is often a restriction. The textile imposes itself to you and you need to improvise and work with what you get.”
When there is any waste material, they are made into smaller items such as scrunchies, eye masks, and more. Check out these unique pieces for yourself!
Elexiay
Crochet, crochet, crochet. These are the key focuses of Nigerian-based brand Elexiay started by designer Elyon Adede, who learned about the impact of climate change while in school and wanted to do something meaningful about it. Thus Elexiay was born. Although the collection is small at the moment, the style direction is strong, with bright colours, cleverly designed crochet patterns and flattering silhouettes. All their pieces are handmade and made only on demand.
Some pieces might be hard to wear outside a beach – but hey, maybe a set from Elexiay is exactly what we need to inspire us to be on the beach more! With its unique design and strong colours, an outfit from Elexiay would make an unforgettable entrance at your next outing for sure.
Elexiay stresses that their artisans are all women and they are fairly paid. They also only use locally produced yarn in the production of their garments. The brand’s vision is to research more forms of Nigerian crafts, arts and skills that can be useful in the production of clothes, and work on being a part of the fashion industry’s change towards a better future.
That is my round up of 11 cool and fun sustainable brands I have my eyes on in 2020. Their work has inspired me greatly and I hope it does for you too. The selection is also just my point of view, so I am sure there are brands I am missing. What else? Comment below!
If you are captivated by the designs of one of the above brands, but you can’t afford to (nor want to splurge the cash) to purchase from them, I highly recommend checking out The Real Real for secondhand options of these brands. Fairly made fashion which treats people in the production chain right and uses materials that are low in environmental impact come at fair prices. But if you still can’t justify spending that amount on it, getting them secondhand is the next best way to experience them!
Disclosure: Some of the above links may be affiliate links, meaning I earn a small percentage of sales made via those links, but it doesn’t cost you anything extra! I never choose products based on whether a sale could be made and I remain honest in my review.